2005 Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru

"Dugat's 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru originates in La Perriere (below Mazis) and Craipillot (just west of town), whose fruit he has been fermenting together for years. There is even more chocolate and sweet cherry richness on display than in the village Gevrey, along with a considerable measure of marrowy meatiness, fresh cherry and cranberry fruit, sap and vigor. Resinous and bitter elements are nicely covered in sweetness and woven into the tightly-knit fabric of this Pinot that finishes with considerable tannic chew, yet also a satisfying flux of fresh fruit. Revisit this in 5-7 years, although it certainly has the material to hold fast for considerably longer. Known for his low yields and intensely concentrated Pinots (all but the Bourgogne raised in new barrels), Claude Dugat -- with the increasing involvement of his son Bertrand -- has rendered a formidable 2005 collection that makes no concessions to early charm." "Saturated red-ruby. Very ripe aromas of dark raspberry and smoked meat. Supple and rich but not overly sweet; a bit lower-toned than the village wine, with a saline impression of extract and notes of chocolate and menthol. This boasts a remarkably mouthfilling texture but today the fruit is suppressed and the wine seems more ponderous than the basic village offering. Lay this one down for four or five years or give it a good aeration if you plan to open it any time soon." -91+ Points - Stephen Tanzer - International Wine Cellar [+]