2009 Yering Station Chardonnay

"Bright straw-green; very good chardonnay was made in the Yarra Valley in '09, because either side of the bushfire auto da fe, the weather was perfect, and smoke taint doesn't affect chardonnay. The wine has an admirable restraint, white peach and grapefruit to the fore, sustained by natural acidity and supported by French oak." [+]