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"The new release of the Billecart-Salmon non-vintage Brut Réserve, which I encountered at the great Champagne tasting at Crush Wines and Spirits here in New York in December, is comprised mostly of fruit from the 2008 vintage and the vast majority of the blend is one third each of chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir, with none of the base wines going through malolactic fermentation for this bottling. The bouquet is deep and quite lovely, offering up scents of apple, tart orange, a lovely base of complex soil tones, warm bread and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and snappy, with a fine core, absolutely exquisite balance and focus, very refined mousse and excellent grip on the very long and classy finish. This is a lovely bottle of Brut NV that will only get better with a bit of bottle age. 2013- 2025+." (02/13) [+]