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le Brun Servenay Champagne Brut Millesime Vieilles Vignes Exhilarante 2004
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Patrick Le Brun is a farmer and winemaker who presides over his family’s tiny 17.29 acre Domaine located in the Grand Cru village of Avize, in France’s Champagne region. Chardonnay is king at Le Brun Severnay hardly surprising given the family’s superlative holdings in the Cote de Blancs: seven acres in the Grand Cru communes of Avize, Cramant and Oger, two acres in the 1er Cru of Grauves and the remainder planted nearby in Mancy. The Le Bruns have been grape growers in Avize for four generations. On Patrick’s mother’s side, the Servenays had grown grapes for five generations in the village of Mancy. In 1955, after Patrick’s parents married, they created Le Brun Servenay and became the first generation to make their living solely from growing and vinifying estate grapes. The family’s 45 parcels of vineyards are exceptionally located on the chalky soils of the upper slopes of the Cote des Blancs, and are farmed in the lutte raisonee method. Given his taste for wines of extreme precision and brilliance, Patrick prefers not to pick too late and blocks malolactic fermentation. He filters only once and riddles by hand. With the exception of the red in the Rose, half of which is aged in oak, the wines are vinified in small stainless steel vats, separated by parcel of origin. The dosages, generally between 6- 8 g/l and are made with rectified, concentrated must. Given the inherent freshness of fruit and absence of malo, the flavor profiles of the wines lean toward extra brut. All wines are made exclusively from estate fruit. Patrick considers himself a farmer first and winemaker second. His experience and knowledge have been well recognized in the region. In 2008, the French government awarded him the title of Knight of the National Order of Agricultural Merit for his work as president of the SGV, the Union of Champagne Growers, a position he held from 2004 until 2009. [+]